Click for Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Forecast
--Go on a day trip out of Ulaanbaatar driving a tank, shooting different rifles and launching grenades!!! On the   way, enjoy a nice scenery from a beautiful mountain pass!!!
--Go on a tour to nature and nomadic families observing their routine lifestyle!!!...

--Just call to 98206816 !!!

Consulting on route-planning, rent of strong tents, gas stoves, saddles, saddle bags, safety, and sleeping bags.
On 02.7.1714, a Chinese envoy arrives through Saratov at Ayuk Khan's residence asking the Torguts to return to Dzungaria in exchange of their aid the Manchus in the conquest of the Oret Mongols.

Support Mongolian people by using services provided by the Mongols themselves!!!"-Now, most foreign tourists enter and leave Mongolia with foreign-owned airlines or trains, stay at foreign accommodations, eat at foreign restaurants in Ulaanbaatar and travel in the country with foreign tour companies"/admitted Davaadorj Ts, the Minister of Infrastructure and Trade. 02.10.2007/.
Mongolia travel companions wanted:
31. A New Zealander is going on a short trip out of Ulaanbaatar for 2 or 3 days that starts September 10th or 11th.  30. Looking for people to travel by bike. Ideally following a river, from Ulaanbaatar/let's plan it together/. I'm flexible. A hiking tour would be great too. saraniort@yahoo.fr Tel: 95001082.;Read more...

Welcome to Mongolia!

Dear Guest,
Sain bainu?/ "Are you fine?"/. Ta saikhan namarjij bainu?/"Are you having a good autumn?"

It's me, Bolod, a Mongol man who runs a tour operator-the Bolod's Tours and Guesthouse in Mongolia.
Thank you for visiting my live website! It's about Mongolia and the Mongols.
Welcome to the ancestral heartland for more than 12 mln. Mongols who live now in 8 countries/Mongolia/2.7mln/, China/5.8-6.0mln/, Afghanistan/3.0-4.0mln/, Russia/0.8mln/, Iran, Burma, Kyrgyzstan and Pakistan/. ...If we can bring Herat's Moghols, Kyrgyzstan's Sart-Kalmyks, Kuko-nor's Mongols, Russia's Kalmyks and those Hazaras who are clearly of Mongol descent and who want it themselves, back to the central land of their ancestors ?! They wouldn't be coming to Mongolia as refugees, they will be here at home !  ... If Astana is bringing the ethnic Kazaks from different countries to Kazakhstan in order to make their country stronger, why Ulaanbaatar wouldn't consider to do the same?! We have enough land for everybody who wants to settle permanently in Mongolia for the ethnic reason. UN should help us too. When Soviet Union ended up with the splits, Germany has received ethnic Germans from Russia, Kazakhstan, Ukraine and other former republics too. Remember, Turkey received Turks from Bulgaria when Todor Jivkov changed his mind towards them. Ukraine and Russia welcome their ethnic kinsmen from the post-Soviet countries to settle in their countries.

We, the Mongols are even more separated than the ill-fated Kurdish people. Do we know any person, any family or any nation who is happy for being separated ?!

We invite you to visit the country and its people. You will be visiting a people with centuries-old nomadic lifestyle, listening to the absolute silence and breathing  the purest ever air  and seeing the eternal blue sky dominating over this beautiful land on Central Asian plateau:
green taiga forests, the second largest fresh water lake in Siberia, ancient burials, icy streams of crystal clear rivers,  in its north,
two-humped camels, towering sand dunes, green oases with saksaul trees, rocky mountains in scarsely green plains, natural formations of cliffs... in its South,
endless steppes, homeland of best horses, bird gathering at blue lakes, fishing rivers, numerous gazelles, volcanic craters... in its East,
snow capped mountains, great lakes, rock paintings, steep canyons, yak herds and massive sand dunes, mountain and field caves ... in its West!

Discover Mongolia with Bolod's Tours which operates since 1991! Stay comfortably in Bolod's guesthouses operate since 2000! It's a truly experienced native tour operator and guesthouse reccommended by Lonely Planet's "Mongolia" guidebook of 2001/page 139/ and 2005/pages 69, 72/ and its "Trans Siberian Railway" of 2006/p. 263/, "Mongoru"/in Japanese/ by Globe-Trotter/ of 2007-2008/page 56/, "Mongolie" by Petit Fute of 2008-2009/page 86/and on the www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn- the official tourism website of Mongolia.

What's now the situation with Mongolia's tourism like? As Mr. Davaadorj Ts, the Minister of the Manufacturing and Trade admitted on October 2nd, 2007, on TV, "-Now, most foreign tourists enter and leave Mongolia by foreign-owned airlines or trains, stay at foreign-owned accommodations, eat at foreign restaurants and travel with foreign tour companies". It's true, indeed, nowdays.
This country doesn't need foreign investments in fields where the Mongols are capable or must do businesses themselves. What kind of foreign investments does Mongolia indeed need? The country needs foreign investment in manufacturing and technology most!!! Mongolia's rulers must serve in the interests of their own people.

I'm almost one of patriots who want to remain in this  last homeland instead of emigrating abroad as too many Mongols do so. Exodus of its young population and export of Mongol women are the greatest threats to the further existense of  Mongols as a nation...
Nationwide mining boom and gold rush are the greatest threat to Mongolia's nature... The gold may feed the people for 50 years, while preserved Nature-Mother would be able do it for another 5000 years.

Thank you for taking your time visiting my modest website.

I will keep my website live and constantly updated.

Bolod

Some of Mongol-owned restaurants and canteens in Ulaanbaatar:
1. "
Avtai Sain Khaan", a Mongolian meals restaurant with high-quality service in Ulaanbaatar. Located opposite to the USA Embassy. Tel: 99116670.
2. "Ikh Mongol" restaurant\original Mongolian draft beer and food and european food\, Opening hours : 10am to 11pm, located opposite Asa Circus, Tel: 320450
3. "
Ikh Khuraldai" restaurant, located at 400meters to south from Peace Bridge on Chinggis Avenue, tel: 976-11-342511, 976-11-343553

4. "Modern  Nomads" restaurant. www.modernnomads.mn

Web: 
Some of Mongol-owned companies in Mongolia:
1. www.gmobile.mn G-Mobile is the first Mongol-owned cellular operator in Mongolia!!! I'm now with G-Mobile.
2. www.monos.mn - The company's great brand  is "Salimon".

3. "Mill House" LLC, the newest flour making factory: www.millhouse.mn
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Монголчуудын тухай сэтгэгдлүүд\Impressions of the Mongols\эх үүсвэрийг заалгүй хуулахыг хориглоно!!!
Сэтгэгдэл 1: "Two were Mongolian lamas in shabby robes of saffron and crimson, bound at the waist by twisted sashes of faded purple cloth. One lama had a crushed felt hat on his shaven head, the other was bare-headed, and both wore high, leather Mongol boots. The one with hat was tall and rather gaunt, with a long nose, and sunken cheeks below high cheekbones. The other was shorter and more thickset, with a broader face. Both might have been taken for American Indians. As we camp up, they were in the act of replacing their carved snuff-bottles in their belt-purses, having taken them out to exchange them with third man, who had just joined them.
The newcomer was a layman, with a frank, pleasant expression in contrast to the somewhat furtive looks of the lamas. He too would have resembled an American Indian except for the long, drooping moustache under his small, finely chiseled nose. Unlike the lamas, he was wearing a dark blue summer robe of heavy serge, with a red sash, a brown belt hat, and cloth boots. Though the features and dress of all three were so typically Mongol, and unlike anything we had seen in China, I thought I would try the experiment of greeting them in Chinese. The taller monk answered, with quite a strong accent, explaining that he, like many other lamas of the border regions I had visited, often had occasion to deal with the Chinese merchants in buying things for his temple, and had learned their language in that way.
pages 6, 7. "The Land of the Camel" by Schuiler Cammann. 1950. The Ronald Press Company. NewYork.

Сэтгэгдэл 2: " We found the Mongols to be a hospitable people with full, healthy-looking faces and often with handsome and intelligent intelligent features...
In the morning several Mongol men and women looked in on us and very kind-heartedly sewed the extensions on our sleeves and fixed knapsacks for us. The Chinese have a long way to go to match the Mongols in kindness...".
"The Chinese Agent In Mongolia" by Ma Ho-t'ien. Baltimore, Johns Hopkins Press, 1949.

Сэтгэгдэл 3: " Here, for the first time, we accosted representatives of pure Mongol race; truculent-looking rascals they seemed to us, after the reserved and rather timid Uriankhai/энэ тохиолдолд Тувачуудыг хэлж байна.А.Б/. The natural influence of the wild life and freedom of the open Mongolian plateau could be traced in their careless and reckless manner; they were loud-speaking, rough soldiery, used to a hard life, apt to bully those below them, but respectful to their superiors./page 260/
...Thus we never saw the Khan/of the Durbets/; and much to our regret, for he was a rare type of an hereditary prince of ancient stock, claiming direct descendent from Jenghis Khan himself. One evening two of his sons visited us, giving us thereby an idea of appearance of a Mongol of a good birth. After our dealings with the rift-raft of the herdsmen, with rough soldiers and with primitive hunters, we had grown accustomed to the idea that all Mongols were heavily built, rough, ill-mannered, ugly to look upon, and with leathery faces, but these two Mongol gentlemen astonished us by their indefinable look of breeding and by their charm of manner. Of average height, and lightly built, with clean, sharp-cut features, soft, dark, olive skin and small hands, they showed a marked contrast to their retainers. Their had the refined air, the politeness of manner, courteous style, which belongs only to those Mongols who are accustomed to rule...There is still "spirit" left in the Mongols, judjing by these two men of a good birth; they, at any rate, gave us no impression of decay or deterioration. Turned into the right channels, the Mongol Khans could wield great power to good effect. Even now the tide is turning, and when the nomads have realized their strength and regained their self-reliance, they may also regain their independence..."/pages 269, 270/.
"Unknown Mongolia"/a record of travel and exploration in North-West Mongolia and Dzungaria/ by Douglas Carruthers. 1913. London. Hutchinson & Co

Сэтгэгдэл 4: "Саяын хөдөөний монголчууд огт танихгүй хүнийг зочилсонд би их баярласан, сэтгэл минь их хөдөлсөн. Гэвч надад нэгэн гунигт бодол төрж байна. Тэд одоо мөхөөд байхгүй болсон миний ард түмнийг санагдуулчихлаа. Гайти арлын уугуул- монголжуу төрхтэй хүмүүсийн сүүлийн хэдхэн төлөөлөгчийн нэг нь би\Одоо тэнд чинь гол төлөв африкчууд болон миний ард түмнийг хядсан европчуудын үр садаас цөөн хүн байдаг\. Манайхан үнэндээ, яг саяын монголчууд\малчин 2 айлыг хэлж байна. А.Б\ шиг зочломтгой, цайлган зангаасаа болж мөхсөн юм. Өөрөөр хэлбэл харийнхан тэдний минь зочломтгой занг ашиглан арлыг маань эзлэн авсан юм даа. Бас тэд нар жаргаснаас хойш гадагшаа гардаггүй уламжлалтай байж. Энэ үеээр нь европчууд тэднийг минь жинхэнэ хяддаг байсан. Тэд минь хэт гэнэн, болгоомжгүй байж дээ...". Швейцарын парламентын гишүүн байсан гэх нэгэн авгай 2009 оны намар Төв аймгийн нутагт надад ярьсан билээ.

Сэтгэгдэл 5: "The houseboys, Chinese privates from the Sarachi district of central Suiyuan, tried to crowd into the mess hall, saying that if "that no-account" could come in, they could too. They recognized him as a Mongol by the scarlet vest he wore with his student uniform-no Chinese would wear anything as bright- and Sa-hsien people, as members of the first wave of Chinese migtation into the Mongol grazing lands, are the most open in their scorn of the people they dispossessed.
Their feeling was even more obvious next morning when Fred went to ask the cook for an extra plate of eggs to give Dunguerbo. "Mongol no good!" the Chinese servants said with emphasis. This annoyed us very much, as Dunguerbo had a far finer personality and a much more generous nature than most of the Chinese we had contact with up there"
page127, "The Land of the Camel" by Schuyler Cammann. The Ronald Press Company. New York. 1950.

Сэтгэгдэл 6: "...I call the whole thing a tragedy because it does not give either Chinese or Mongol fair chance. The Mongols at present are, as a race, at a standstill, if they are not dying. Yet with wise treatment they would become again withing 2 generations a proudand self-reliant people. The world needs more and more its pasture lands, to supply civilazation with wool and meat and hides. The Mongols, with Russia on one side of them and China on the other, are powerless. As a nation they are unarmed and incoherent.."
"The Desert Road to Turkestan" by Owen Lattimore. 1929, Boston.

Сэтгэгдэл 7: "Huc and after him, Prjevalsky have described the Tsaidam Mongols as morose and melancolic, speaking little-in fact, hardly better than animals. I was glad to find all those I met quite different from what the accounts of these travelers had caused me expect. Not only they showed themselves ready to do anything for me, but they expected themselves to make my stay agreeable, inviting me, or playing on a rough kind of banjo they manufacture themselves".
page 130, The Land of the Lamas" by Rockhill W.W/a journey into eastern Tibet and Mongolia in 1888-1889/.

Сэтгэгдэл 8: "Away in the distance we had seen some black spots from which faint columns of blue smoke were raising peacefully in the morning air. these were the yurts, or felt tents, of the Mongols, towards which we were making.. .. All round the sides of the tent boxes and cupboards were neatly arranged and at one end were some vases and images og Buddha. In the centre, was fireplace, situated directly beneath the hole of the place. I was charmed with the comfort of the place. The Chinese inns, at which I had so far had to put up, were cold and draughty. Here the sun came streaming in through the hole in the top, and there were no draughts whateever. Nor was there any dust; and this being the tent of a well-to-do Mongol, it was clean and neatly arranged"
-"Among the Celestials" by Captain Younghusband, C.I.E. London. John Murray, Albemarle Street. 1898

Сэтгэгдэл 9: "At Urga, in June, the great meet which the Living God blesses with his presence is an amazing spectacle, reminiscent of the pageants of the ancient emperors. All the elite of Mongolia gather on the banks of the Tola River, dressed in their most splendid robes, and the archery, wrestling, and horse racing are famous throughout the East. This love of sport is one of the most attractive characteristics of the Mongols. It is a common ground on which a foreigner immediately has a point of contact. The Chinese, on the contrary, despise all forms of physical exercise. They consider it "bad form," and they do not understand any sport which calls for violent exertion. They prefer to take a quiet walk, carrying their pet bird in a cage for an airing ; to play a game of cards; or, if they must travel, to loll back in a sedan chair, with the curtains drawn and every breath of air excluded"
page 158, "Across Mongolian Plains" by Roy Chapman Andrews. D. Appleton and Company. New York. 1921.

Сэтгэгдэл 10: "There were several Mongol yurts about, and we had visits from some of the men. They were tall, strong, muscular fellows, but very childish, amused at everything, and very rough in their manners.
Looking on these uncouth, indolent men, it was difficult to imagine that they were the descendants of the wild Tartar ordes, who under Chengiz Khan had conquered China, had penetrated to India, had subdued all Turkestan and Pursia, and swept through Russia even to Central Europe..."-
page 128, "Among the Celestials" by Captain Younghusband, C.I.E. London. John Murray, Albemarle Street. 1898

Сэтгэгдэл 11: "The question naturally arises, Why the Mongols decreasing when they own so good a land? whatever the cause of Mongol decadence, it cannot be through lack of available territory"./page 290/
"Lama-ridden, and fleeced by the Chinese, the Mongols remain in a state of serfdom under their chiefs"./page 293/
"Such questions came to us as the red-coated Mongol horsemen rode near us during the day, sat around the camp-fires with us at night. They could tell us nothing, they were unaware of their ancient greatness. Only the name of Jenghis remained in their memory, and him they treated as a deity and spoke of with reverence"/page 295/
"Let us look at the Mongols of the present day. The traveller in Mongolia, alive to the history and former greatness of the people who dwell there, will recognise much at the present day that corresponds to those old accounts of the Mongols as here quoted. He will note that they are still hardy, still capable of enduring fatigue, cold, and hunger; so far, indeed, as physique goes, the Mongol of to-day is probably equal of the men Jenghis Khan let to battle"./page 306/
"Lamaism in Mongolia has been countenanced, and in every way encouraged, by the Chinese, who were clever enough to realise the influance such an organisation would exercise over nomad people. The Chinese patronized and endowed the monasteries, and granted special privileges to the lamas... Lamaism absorbes a large portion of the male population by inducing a vast majority of men, who under ordinary conditions of life would be the bread-winners and workers, to turn into a species of parasite. The boys, for instance, who in the earlier days devoted their time to martial and physical exercises, camp-work, or herding the flocks, are now entered at early age as students in the lamaseries, and their lives are entirely sacrificed to the forms and services of religion; when grown up, this tends to make them lead idle, useless lives, wholly dependent on others, when they should be independent and self-supporting."
pages 312, 313, "Unknown Mongolia"/a record of travel and exploration in North-West Mongolia and Dzungaria/ by Douglas Carruthers. 1913. London. Hutchinson & Co
/үргэлжлэл бий/

Articles

Dear Guest,

Please read here some interesting articles on Mongolia.

Mongolian Gazelles

Mongolian Gazelle Health Evaluations
Drs. William Karesh and Sharon Deem

Daybreak in Mongolia. 4:30, 23 Jun 99
Dr. Sharon Deem, another field vet from the Wildlife Conservation Society, and I arrived yesterday afternoon in Ulaan Baator, the capital of Mongolia, after a 17-hour flight from New York to Seoul, Korea, and a quick 3-hour connecting flight. The second flight carried us across the Great Gobi Desert where turbulence over the desert jarred the emergency exit door, causing the alarm to sound and the emergency lights to flash. A flight attendant pounded on the door handle until the alarm quieted down, but I requested that he stop doing that at 30,000 feet. We continued the flight with the annoying alarm as background noise. Finally, the vast plains dotted with an occasional ger (traditional round white felt tent) and clusters of livestock provided an exciting enough distraction for us to forget about the noise.

We landed and cleared immigration and customs with our 11 pieces (300 pounds) of baggage. Sharon and I are here to provide the local wildlife authorities with a health assessment of wild Mongolian gazelles, which once numbered in the millions and lived throughout eastern Mongolia, Russia, and China. Over-hunting in the neighboring countries has left this region of Mongolia with the only significant populations of the little-studied gazelle. Herds of up to 50,000 of these 40-90 pound golden-brown gazelles roam the vast, unfenced steppes of eastern Mongolia. Late June and early July is the calving season, and thousands of females will find their way to a few traditional calving grounds, lush with green grass, to give birth. As the early fall approaches, they will take their kids and migrate across the steppes to areas that have yet to be completely identified.

The adult gazelles are difficult to approach and would be virtually impossible to dart with a tranquilizer gun. The newborn calves, on the other hand, are fairly easy to catch in the foot or two of tall grass. Each will receive a physical examination (neonatal exam), and we'll collect a blood sample to evaluate their health status. The blood samples will tell us if the calves are suckling from their mothers, and laboratory testing will reveal which infectious diseases their mothers have been exposed. The dams produce antibodies against diseases and pass these on to their offspring during pregnancy and through their milk during the first day or two of life. Our tests will tell us which diseases the gazelles have immunity to and which ones they do not.

But right now, we are only halfway to our field site. After our arrival yesterday, we immediately went to work by re-packing our gear and searching the city for liquid nitrogen. We need this ultra-cold liquid (minus 270 degrees) to freeze the samples. Poor translations prior to our arrival resulted in 6 gallons of nitric acid being bought for us by mistake. Our contacts finally tracked down one of Mongolia's nuclear physicists, and he kindly loaned us one of the only liquid nitrogen tanks in the entire country.

Later this morning, Sharon and I will fly to the eastern border of the country and meet up with the rest of the field team. They preceded us by a week to identify calving sites and set up the field camp. If all goes well with the flights and a five- or six-hour drive across the steppes, we should arrive at camp late this evening.

24 June, 1999
Luck must have been with us yesterday and just as it got dark, we made it to camp. Things got a little tense at the airport this morning, when the airline staff said they could not fly with liquid nitrogen on a passenger plane. Someone suggested that we check with air cargo and since we had thirty minutes before boarding, we jumped in the jeep and drove to air cargo. They said they would be happy to send it on the next plane, which turned out to be our plane. When Sharon and I boarded the old twin engine prop plane, the tank was sitting in the back of the passenger section.

An hour and a half later, we landed in the provincial capital of Choibalsan. It was an important military position during Soviet times due to its proximity to the eastern border with China. Now roughly 35,000 people live in the area. Sharon and I were met by two staff members from the U.N. Development Program's Biodiversity project based here. Our gazelle health project fits in with their efforts to help develop sound wildlife management and natural resource plans. We loaded our gear into a thirty-year-old Russian jeep and set off across the plains bumping along a dirt road. Six hours later, we found our teammates-to-be just getting ready to eat dinner, a traditional Mongolian meal of mutton and potato soup. They had chosen a hillside spot with a view spanning twenty or thirty miles of open plains. The constant strong winds of the day had finally died down and as it got dark the air chilled quickly.

Today we spent the day organizing our medical gear and searching for herds of gazelles. It hasn't rained as much as we had expected and while there is new green grass growing, many of the rolling hills are a mix of short lush grass and taller golden-brown grass left over from the winter. Due to the relatively dry conditions, the gazelles are spread out in smaller groups than their normal mass gatherings at calving season. This will make our work a little more difficult. We were mostly able to find only groups of ten or twenty gazelles, but a few times we spotted herds of up to a hundred animals.

It's still a bit early for calves. Using binoculars, we could see that most of the females still look pregnant. We only saw a few calves up and running. Hunting pressure is high in this area and the gazelles take off across the plains or nearest hills as soon as they see or hear a vehicle. This project should be challenging.

Sunday night, 27 June, 99
Gazelles are popping out all over the place. For the first two days, we'd drive up to ten miles from camp looking for small groups of adult females. Most are still pregnant, but nearby we could find small patches of calves hiding in the grass. They had been born during the previous night or two. Their mothers feed them during the night and early morning and then wander off to graze for the day. This morning finally, we found huge groups of females. One numbered over a thousand. They were grazing in an area that had burned since last winter and had grown back with short grasses and forbes. Babies were hiding everywhere.

As if searching for Easter eggs, we fanned out on foot to find the tawny-brown newborns. Their color blends perfectly with the old dried clumps of grass, but their ears and big black eyes are a dead giveaway. If they have been born within the last three or four hours, you can quietly sneak up and catch them by hand. If they are older, you have to crawl silently through the dry grass stickers and try to get them with a homemade version of a fish dip net. If someone simultaneously distracts the baby's attention by approaching it from the opposite direction, chances of success are greatly enhanced. If the calf senses a threat for which hiding is not a good enough defense, it will spring to its feet and make a seven second hundred-yard-dash.

When all goes right, the catcher kneels down and quickly gets the little gazelle safely tucked between his or her legs. A few of the kids will bleat once or twice, but most remain silent. They are carefully placed in a cloth bag and weighed with a hanging scale. Newborns are roughly seven to ten pounds. Then Sharon or I give each one a physical exam, looking for any abnormalities such as a cleft palate or an infected navel. A blood sample is collected easily from its jugular vein, and a bright yellow, numbered tag is placed in its ear, boys on the left ear, girls on the right. Notes are made as to the character of the vegetation the baby is hiding in, the proximity of its mother and others, the time of day and the exact location. The procedure takes only a few minutes and then the youngster is quietly placed back in its original place. Some immediately resume hiding while others jump and run off. Some seem confused and stand up and wander around us as if we are possibly their mothers coming to feed them. But they figure it out quickly and trot off.

Our search party fans out across the plain again, in search of the next one. After hours of walking and searching in the constant wind and brilliant sun, we managed to catch, mark and examine ten kids during the first two days. If the gazelles are more than a day old, they are too alert and too quick to catch. So we may see fifty or sixty babies, stalk thirty, and catch only ten. This morning's find of huge herds feeding in the short new grass provided us with the opportunity to catch 25 calves. Most of the females we viewed with binoculars are still pregnant, and staying close to their herdmates who are caring for the young they've given birth to over the last few days. I think we've found the perfect place to work for the next few days.

30 June, 99
I may have exaggerated a bit when I described our site as the "perfect place" the other day. In fact, entropy appears to be setting in. In three days, we've had four flat tires. Fittingly, one tire had a broken off gazelle horn driven through it. Fixing a flat in the field of course means removing the tire from the rim by using a wedge and the back of an ax to beat it. Inner tubes are essential, as are old pieces of rubber for patching. The brakes on our old Russian jeep broke but Dundar, our driver, was able to fix them. Today, the front suspension rod on Vadim's van broke so whenever he hits a slight bump the tire rubs inside the wheel well. Vadim is a Russian scientist studying the ecology of gazelles in Mongolia for part of the year. The rest of the year he manages a wildlife reserve across the northern border in Russia. He drove his fifteen-year-old van down here for the project and will have to limp home slowly when we are finished.

My buddy Stacey e-mailed from New York to tell me about a wine tasting she attended the night before. The event contrasted with the fact that we've only been drinking tepid water from a well that has dead, bloated mice floating on the surface. It takes an hour to get to the well just to get water to bring back to camp and then we have to boil it to make it safe (but not very tasty). No one can wait for the water to cool off so most of it is drunk while it's still warm. The bread we brought out from town dried out the first day so we've been joking about living on stale bread and water. But the views are spectacular. Sunsets fill a vast horizon and the full moon has been rising in Scorpio.

The night before last, lightning hit the plains upwind from camp, about 2 Km away. Dundar, another driver and I couldn't get the resulting grass fire under control by ourselves and I raced back across the steppe to camp to bring more water and people to fight the fire. We had a another flat about halfway to the growing blaze and ran the rest of the way with 40 pound containers of water. But when we got there it was "Hopeless," as Lhagva kept screaming over the roar of the advancing wall of fire. He made Sharon and the others run back to camp to start packing up while he and I searched the other two men that were still trying to beat it out with a shovel and piece of tire inner tube. We all ran in front of the half-mile wide burning front to the van, started it with the pair of scissors that serves as a key, and drove it with the completely flat tire back to camp. In a fury of activity, we dismantled the ten tents, threw the gear in the jeep and van and moved a couple of miles away. George Schaller, Director of Science for WCS and Kirk Olson, a graduate student from the U.S. were out radio tracking gazelles so they didn't know anything was wrong. With only two vehicles, it took two trips to get the gear moved out of harm's way and we got the last load with about 10 minutes to spare. It is still burning today, the leading edge has advanced about 15 miles and the back end (against the wind) made its way around our new camp. We back-burned a little ring around camp so we had an island forty yards across of unburned grass in a sea of black that stretches to the horizon in every direction. On the upwind side, the short grass fire can be extinguished by just rubbing your shoes across it. So we could still drive in and out of the fire zone to work. Last night flames and smoke were still rising from the distant hills all around us.

Luckily, eighty percent of the females had not calved before the fire. Ones with calves four or five days old will easily move away from the burned area with their youngsters following them. The younger ones will have a harder time. We watched some of the newborns get up and run a hundred yards or so when the flames nearly touched them. Hopefully, they can keep away from the advancing fire and their mothers will find them. The good news so far is that we searched large areas of the burned grasslands and didn't find any injured baby gazelles. Apparently, most of the gazelles have moved on to greener pastures (so to speak) and it was time for us to do the same.

Despite the unexpected difficulties, we managed to examine close to fifty young gazelles. We've been collecting blood samples for health testing from each one and have a "field laboratory" consisting a microscope and other medical equipment that we've configured to run on power from car batteries.

With the microscope, we can perform white blood cell counts to provide a simple indicator of immune system function. With a centrifuge, we can separate off serum from the whole blood to be frozen in liquid nitrogen for infectious disease testing back in the U.S. The fifty samples will provide the first comprehensive information on the health status of Mongolian gazelles. This type of information is virtually nonexistent for most species except humans and domestic animals.

So with the excellent samples from the southern part of the province safely frozen, we've decided to head north to the other main gazelle population. Most of the team will remain behind to monitor the southern gazelles while Sharon and I move north with Vadim to his regular study site. The "adventure" continues.

3 July, 99
Well, the adventure did continue in ways we did not anticipate. On the drive back to Choibalson, the regional capital, we stopped to rest at a crest on the plains. No sign of human habitation could be seen as far as the horizon in any direction. A huge pile of rocks and empty bottles topped the hill and was marked with a stick and an old piece of cloth flapping in the wind. This monument was an Ovoo (pronounced “awa”), part of an ancient Mongolian traveler’s ritual. We all got out to add a few stones and walk around the pile three times to bring us good fortune and a safe journey before heading down the dusty dirt track again. Maybe it worked – we did arrive back in town safely. But we were greeted with the news that there was no more fuel available and it may be a month or two before the next delivery. The liquid nitrogen in our tank was also running low. Sharon and I decided not to jeopardize the fifty or so samples we had already collected and frozen. Instead we made plans to head back to the States.

Yesterday morning we went out to the airport and got stand-by tickets to fly to Ulaan Baator. That worked fine and by mid-afternoon we were back in the captial arranging a morning flight to Japan and then onto the U.S. Today we’re flying to Osaka, once again over the turbulent skies above the Gobi Desert. By this afternoon, we should be on flights to the U.S. and because of the international dateline, we can arrive in New York by evening of the same day, just in time for the 4th of July. The trip has been a successful but long one and I think we’re both looking forward to sleeping on the plane and drinking all the free fresh water they have available.